Which factory, by generation
Clean Factory for the current 41mm ceramic references, with a cloned VR3135. AR Factory for the older 40mm references, also on a cloned 3135. Buying by generation matters more here than on any other Rolex, because the case proportions changed between them and a factory that is good at one is not automatically good at the other.
The three checks that matter
- Bezel action. 120 clicks, unidirectional, firm and damped with no back-play. Count them. A cheap bezel overshoots and rattles, and you can hear it on a video.
- Ceramic bezel colour. The blue on a Smurf or a Bluesy is a specific shade that goes purple on poor builds. The green on a Hulk or Starbucks goes yellow. This is the single most common failure on the coloured references.
- Cyclops. 2.5x magnification, centred over the date, with the date filling the window. Undermagnification is endemic.
What we stock
Black, Starbucks, Hulk, Smurf, Bluesy, Cookie Monster, the No-Date, two-tone and yellow gold configurations. The coloured bezels are where the factory difference shows most clearly, and they are also the references buyers ask about most.
Date or no date
The No-Date Submariner has a symmetrical dial and no cyclops, which removes the single most commonly failed detail on the model. If you want the lowest risk of a visible fault, it is the safest reference in the range. The Date version is the more recognisable watch and the one most buyers picture, but it puts the cyclops magnification and the date centring on show at all times.
What changed between generations
The older 40mm references have slimmer lugs and a narrower case profile. The current 41mm references have broader lugs, a wider bracelet at the case and a slightly larger dial opening. They wear noticeably differently, and photographs flatten that difference almost completely. If you are choosing between generations, decide on the lug width rather than on the dial, because that is what you will notice on the wrist.
Lume, and how to test it in a photograph
Submariner lume should be a clean blue-green when charged and should still be readable after an hour. Ask for a lume shot taken after the watch has been in the dark for thirty minutes rather than immediately after charging. Anyone can photograph bright lume in the first ten seconds.
Before it ships
Each Submariner spends 24 to 48 hours on a timegrapher. We turn the bezel through a full rotation on video so the click action is audible, and photograph the date window straight-on so the cyclops magnification is verifiable. You approve everything before dispatch. Two year warranty, in writing.
Frequently asked questions
How much is a Submariner super clone?
$1,100 to $1,200 in our catalogue.
Clean or AR?
Clean for the current 41mm ceramic. AR for the older 40mm references.
Which Submariner is the safest first buy?
The black ceramic or the No-Date. Neither depends on a coloured ceramic bezel firing correctly, which is where the coloured references most often disappoint.
